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Issue Number 24, August 2004

Kapatiran Issue No. 24, August 2004

A PHILIPPINE VISIT
A Time Of Immersion And Learning
- David Tutty

In November 2003 I had the opportunity of a second visit to the Philippines. During the three and a half weeks I was there I spent time with missionaries, social justice workers, theologians, leprosy patients, indigenous tribal people and many rural poor. My hope in going was to learn more about what life was like for the many of the people, to hear something of the issues that impact upon their lives and to deepen my analysis, theological reflection and possible ways of responding. While aware it was such a short time, this visit and the one a year earlier, have left me with a strong desire to return and to find ways of supporting those working for justice.

Tala

My first few days were spent in the town of Tala in Caloocan City to the north of Metro Manila. Tala grew up around the establishment of a leprosy hospital and in the past the hospital and the dormitories outside its gates housed many thousands of patients at any one time from all over the country. But today, with the greater availability of specific medicines and the willingness of the Government to cover the cost of a basic level of treatment, the numbers are only in the hundreds.

I stayed with Rosa, a Dominican sister, and was taken to visit the hospital, many of the dormitories and two Basic Ecclesial Communities (BECs) by Samuel, a Dominican brother. I also visited the schools the Dominicans had established for the children of the patients and talked with both teachers and senior students. Many talked about the negative attitudes and exclusion they had experienced because they or their parents suffered from leprosy. Some were even surprised and grateful that I was willing to shake their disfigured hands.

One who was happy to speak with me was David Papa who teaches English and Philosophy at the tertiary level college. He is in his mid 50s and a survivor of leprosy. As he shared his story, his desire to make life better for the children of the patients and his analysis of North-South issues, I sensed a deep awareness the vested interests that were keeping the majority in the Philippines, and particularly those he cared about, very poor. His life's passion was to give to his students an awareness of the wider world and the tools to critically analyse it. David asked me to spend an hour with his third year Philosophy class. After a few minutes of me introducing myself and talking about my own work the floor was open for questions. They ranged from politics, corruption, world events, church, priestly celibacy and the permissiveness of Western young people.

San Carlos

After leaving Tala and staying a night at the University of Santo Tomas, I travelled up to San Carlos in Pangasinan province, more than six hours north of Metro Manila. The Victory Liner bus took me as far as Dagupan and Nati, a Spanish Dominican sister, met me. The trip to the convent took two jeepneys and one tricycle (the universal means of public transport in the Philippines. A jeepney is a colourfully painted and decorated covered jeep, which holds maybe a dozen seated passengers in the back and another couple next to the driver; a tricycle is a motorbike with a covered sidecar, which can transport maybe five passengers, on the bike and in the sidecar. Ed.).

The convent, chapel and catechetical institute is on the edge of Barangay Talang a semi-rural community a wee way out of town. The sisters have recently built this large complex with money and plans from their Spanish Mother House and Nati struggles with the huge difference in comfort and lifestyle between the convent and its immediate neighbours. For a number of years previously, she and other sisters had lived in a small basic house and regularly travelled to more outlying settlements and stayed in peoples' homes.

The sisters continue to be involved with the local surrounding rural communities. Nati and a Filipina sister, Joyce, took me out on two trips by tricycle to meet some of the people with whom they used to stay. We travelled past rice and cornfields on very basic mud tracks to small bare hollow block or thatched houses. We were welcomed very warmly and people were eager to talk about what their life was like. One place we stayed late to join the BEC in a Bible study. The peoples' reflections, while largely traditional, also included some questioning of what was just and fair. On the second trip I was introduced to the captain of one of the barangays (a unit of local government. Ed.) and was instructed by one of his older companions to tell GMA* to behave! *Filipinos share Americans' fondness for referring to their Presidents by the latters' initials. GMA = Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo. Ed.

One afternoon we spent two hours travelling to Manaoag, a town in the foothills north of Dagupan. This town is a site of pilgrimage and the church contains a very large statue of Our Lady of Manaoag. The entranceways to the church were crowded with a large number of street sellers with candles and souvenirs. Later walking around the town it was obvious that being a site of pilgrimage was quite a significant industry for the town.

Another afternoon Nati took me to visit the immediate neighbours. I met Mercy, her children and some of the extended family. Again the houses were a mixture of hollow concrete block ones and traditional thatched ones. Inside the families had very few possessions, no plumbing and used pieces of cloth to separate living and sleeping areas. One of the projects that Nati and the sisters fund is a small hollow-block fabrication factory, which is located on convent grounds. A number of local families are paid to produce these concrete blocks that are used then to replace their thatched houses. Mercy's sister had just had her house built and soon it would be Mercy's turn.

Antipolo City Caritas NASSA Conference

After taking a Five Star bus back to Cubao (Metro Manila), I stayed another night at the University of Santo Tomas before meeting up with delegates for the NASSA conference at the Catholic Bishops' Compound, within the old walled city of Intramuros. The bus took us northeast through Quezon City up into the hills to Antipolo City. After an evening Mass and some entertainment at the Cathedral we were taken to a retreat centre and allocated our shared rooms.

NASSA is the Catholic Bishops' National Secretariat for Social Action that focuses on emergency relief, development projects and social justice advocacy. The three-day conference was for directors of the 69 diocesan Social Action Centres. Its focus was how to support the advocacy and justice issues of the Basic Ecclesial Communities (BECs). This was seen as a way to "Renew the Church and Philippine Society." So, given my role as the justice and peace worker for the Auckland Catholic Diocese, it was an ideal opportunity to hear how they go about this work and what the lessons are that I can bring to my work. I was the only non-Filipino at the gathering. The majority were diocesan priests, though many were sisters with some lay people.

I was pleased to spend time with Bridget, an indigenous tribal woman from Mountain Province in Northern Luzon. Her analysis of her peoples' ongoing experience of being colonised was particularly acute. Also it was good to spend time with the NASSA staff people who are involved in the research and advocacy around issues for farm workers, fisher folk, women and indigenous peoples. I also met Bishop Gutierrez who is the bishop responsible for NASSA and social justice advocacy.

General Santos (Gensan)

After another night with the Dominican priests at the University of Santo Tomas, I flew to General Santos City in southern Mindanao. The Air Philippine domestic airport security was very apparent and I was body searched before being allowed to board the plane. A Filipina sister whom I had first met in Auckland met me. Noemi Degala belongs to the Missionary Sisters of the Society of Mary (SMSM - the acronym reflects the French name of the order. Ed.), and had been the novice mistress here in Auckland for a few years. Noemi took me back to her convent in the school van and after a meal we met the local parish priests before taking a jeepney to the Notre Dame School and College. There we met up with the college chaplain, Pat Leamy SMSM, the sister of the Assistant Bishop of Auckland. Pat took us around the College departments that have a strong outreach to the surrounding towns and villages. One, the Peace Education Department, ran courses within the college but also facilitated workshops for local communities. After this Noemi showed me a little of the city.

The following day Bien Trinilla, a Dominican priest, picked me up and took me to Marbel in Koronadal City a couple of hours north of Gensan. The day was a celebration of 50 years of the presence of the Dominican Sisters in Mindanao. We had breakfast with the sisters and three bishops, a two-hour Mass, three hours of performances by students from each of the Dominican Colleges, and then a big late lunch.

Later the afternoon once back at Gensan, Bien took me to see the fish port, and to the neighbouring province of Sarangani. That evening we went to dinner at one of his benefactor's places. They run a very large fishing and fish exporting company. Bien had talking with them about supporting some young men in their first two years of training with the Dominicans. They offered to pay the 60,000 pesos needed!

The next day after Mass we visited the home of John, Bien's driver. John and his wife Michelle had just had their first baby baptised and we were invited to the celebration lunch. The family lived with Michelle's parents in a sturdy but very small house. Many of their friends were teachers and pharmacists.

That afternoon Bien took me out to the Dole * plantations that went for many kilometres. I guessed the continuous land area planted to be about 12 to 15 square kilometres with areas fruiting at different stages. Up in the hills beyond the plantation was a Trappistine Sisters' Monastery. A local family had financed this extremely large new complex for enclosed women. On the way back we called in at a durian** orchard for tastings and photos. *Dole is one of the very biggest of the food transnationals and has huge plantations in Mindanao. **Durian is a tropical fruit. Ed.

The following day we were up early and off to Davao City, the main city of Mindanao. The three-hour trip was through some spectacular high mountains. Along the way were three military checkpoints we had to go through. About 30 km from Davao we visited a convention centre and tropical gardens called Eden. Our return trip to Gensan was inland through Digos, Makilala, Kidapawan, M'Lang, a large rural Muslim area of South Cotabato, then through Koronadal back to General Santos City. The quality of the houses and the standard of living in the Muslim areas was noticeably poorer than the Christian Filipino areas. The day ended with meeting up with Noemi and sharing a meal together.

One important area of work for both Noemi and Bien has been the Mindanao Truth Commission. This is a church and citizens' initiative following the "Greenbase Exposé" where junior officers of the Armed Forces mutinied and occupied the luxurious Oakwood Apartment complex in Makati, (Metro Manila's city of the rich), in July 2003. They accused the President and the leaders of the Armed Forces of being party to a series of recent bombings that had occurred in Mindanao. These junior officers claimed that the bombings were part of a military initiative called "Operation Greenbase." In the time Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo has been President, 33 bombing incidents have occurred on the island, 95 people have been killed and 490 people have been injured. The most dramatic were the bombings of Davao Airport on March 4, 2003 and of Sasa Wharf on April 2, 2003. In the progress report of the Commission in March 2004, it found "substantial evidence" to back the accusations of the junior officers. The Commission also claims there is evidence that the military had a "special operation to lob grenades at mosques".

Midsalip

Because my Dominican friends deemed it unsafe and unwise for me to take the 12-hour bus trips through Cotabato to Ozamiz, I flew back to Manila for another night at the University of Santo Tomas. I then flew Air Philippines to Dipolog City on the northwestern coast of Mindanao. I was met by a driver and taken two hours to Ozamiz City where I stayed with Columban missionaries. One is a New Zealander, Paul Finlayson, from Napier. Because it was their feast day, all the lay missionaries also came in for dinner. There were women from England, Ireland, Tonga and Fiji.

The next day Paul took me two hours drive to the poor mountain town of Midsalip where he was parish priest. Midsalip has about 30,000 people in the town and surrounding rural area. I was told that the average wage for a worker on the richer lowland farms was about 75 pesos a day and on the less productive hills only about 30 pesos (at the time of my visit I was getting 55 pesos to a US dollar).

Over the five days in Midsalip, I visited a number of barrios* where Paul said Mass, conducted weddings, baptised and confirmed people. I walked around the town, visited peoples' homes and drank Tanduay Rum** with men who had little or no English. Often though there were people with some English, and I enjoyed listening to how they saw their own situation and what the issues were for them. *Barrio - the basic unit of local government. **Tanduay is the largest brand of Philippine rum. Ed.

One afternoon I spent with some Subaanen tribal young women who were making circular mandalas or dream catchers to be sold in Canada and the US. The Columban priest who organised the project had designed a series of circles with wooden and coconut beads threaded in a pattern to illustrate the story of the universe. He based the design on circular mandala patterns used by Buddhist monks created to draw the eye inward to the centre and to facilitate meditation. The centre of the Subaanen women's work is a small circle with a bead held in a web to represent the beginnings of an ecological consciousness. Feathers were added to the large outer circle for the US market as the North American First Peoples have a tradition of making circular spider web hangings with feathers to keep young ones safe as they sleep.

Another day Paul took me almost an hour's walking through paddy fields to visit Mr and Mrs Calito. They lived in a very simple wooden house on poles in the middle of a forest area. In the afternoons monkeys would often come to the house looking for food. Arnold, their son-in-law, had a semi-tame one as a pet inside. After eating a real feast and drinking bohol - fermented coconut milk - Arnold took me for a couple of hours walk further into the hills. There we met a few Subaanen families. And I saw lots of scattered small rice paddies.

The biggest issue for Midsalip is one of corruption. The local officials have had the town and surrounding area reclassified as a special city. This has enabled the 21 paid officials to radically increase their salaries to a level that averages more than 9,000 pesos each month. This has significantly lessened the money that could be spent on medicine, adequate health personnel and services, drinkable water, roads, farmer support programmes and forest protection.

The failure to deliver appropriate basic services and infrastructure is seen by the community as a violation of the mandate under which the local authority was formed. So with the support of the Columbans and the local Bishop a court case has been filed by some of the taxpayers. The people are looking for letters of support and letters supporting their cause to President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and to the Deputy Ombudsman for Mindanao, Antonio Valenzuela.

The day I left to fly out from Dipolog was memorable. Paul accidentally ran over a straw hat that had blown off the owner's head as he rode his motor scooter. Unbeknown to us, he followed us to the airport and accused Paul of doing it on purpose. When he did not get satisfaction he got the police involved and we sat in the small airport police building while this man tried to get Paul to admit he was at fault and would pay compensation. All ended when the owner of the hat withdrew the charges to honour the coming Christmas festive period.

Dominican Contextual Theology Consultation

Back in Metro Manila, I stayed a final few days with the Dominicans at the University of Santo Tomas. I had been invited a week or so earlier to respond to two keynote presentations on the nature and scope of contextual theology. Contextual theology is a conscious attempt to do theology, to reflect about the nature and action of God, in the light of a specifically named context. In reality all theology is contextual but many theologians are not aware or do not name the worldview and social contexts that shape their work.

One of two I responded to was Dr José de Mesa from De La Salle University in Manila. He reflected on the Filipino relational concept of loob, the quality of personhood that is only revealed when people relate with one another. It is, according to de Mesa, the interior truth of a person known in relationship, thus the authentic self. This he developed as an insight of what the Divine Loob is about and how the Divine calls us to be magandang kalooban - beautiful within. This has strong parallels with the Mäori spirituality approach out of which Pa Henare Tate is working with his context (Pa Henare, from Te Rarawa iwi, is the Vicar for Mäori for the Auckland Catholic Diocese and teaches theology at the University of Auckland).

Concluding Reflections

As with my first trip the year before, the huge gap between the wealth of a few and the poverty of the vast majority is the most striking aspect of visiting the Philippines. And while there are many in the Catholic Church in the Philippines who are pained by this reality there are also many who live very well and do not have an analysis that calls them to work to change the reality. I am fortunate to have made some good contacts who have a passion for working for justice in a variety of ways. I was overwhelmed by the hospitality and graciousness of people and full of admiration for the courage of those I met whose lives seem to be just one tragedy after another.

The whole experience has given me a greater awareness of the value of exposure/immersion experiences. I have since given the subject much thought and written a reflection entitled "We all need disorientating dilemmas". This draws on North American educationalist, Jack Mezirow's, insights into the importance of disorientating dilemmas for a learning process that is transformative, and on Paolo Freire's sense that conscientisation requires the unveiling of contradictions. The late Paolo Freire was a radical Brazilian educationalist who was extremely influential in the last few decades of the 20th Century. His best known book is "The Pedagogy Of The Oppressed". Ed.

I feel that by intentionally leaving our comfort zones and immersing ourselves in a very different context, we can create an opportunity where our sense of what is normal and right gets challenged and questioned. This can only happen though if we go with a sense of humility, because if we go thinking that we have all the answers we will not be open either to the different context or to learning from the people and issues we encounter. I look forward to an opportunity of returning.

David Tutty is a PSNA member and works for the Auckland Catholic Justice and Peace Office.

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