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Issue Number 27/28, April 2007

Kapatiran Issue No. 27/28, April 2007


A NEW ZEALANDER IN MINDANAO
Amongst Sea Nomads And Muslims
- Tim Howard


In August 2005 Tim Howard was one of four New Zealanders to take part in the International Solidarity Mission to investigate the human rights crisis in the Philippines. His report on that, “A War Of Terror Against The Peoples Of The Philippines: A Perspective From The International Solidarity Mission To The Eastern Visayas” was in Kapatiran 25/26, December 2005, and can be read online at http://www.converge.org.nz/psna/KapNo25n26/kap25art/art118.htm. Prior to taking past in the ISM, Tim (making his first visit to the Philippines) spent a month on an exposure tour in Manila, the Cordillera, Negros and Mindanao. This is his account of part of that 2005 exposure. Ed.

I had phoned my friend Mucha-Shim Quiling Arquiza from where I was staying with the Columban priests in Malate, Manila. She joked that Malate was the place for all the outcasts (and she wasn’t referring to the priests) - with it being the red light district, the place where many Muslims stayed (thought to be “terrorists”), and the poorest-of-the-poor like the “Badjao” (a derogatory name for the Sama Dilaut) who have drifted here in hope and are now on the streets reduced to begging, sleeping on cardboard on the pavements. I was to meet Sama Dilaut with Mucha soon at Zamboanga City in Mindanao, and in the Sulu archipelago, in the very south of the Philippines. The morning papers on the day I went south reported two Abu Sayyaf Group * members were killed, one wounded, 17 escaped, in an attack on an Armed Forces of the Philippines (AFP) camp in Mindanao. “Caucasians were involved” - a reference to US (or possibly Australian) troops. * Abu Sayyaf Group –a small band of terrorist bandits operating in southernmost Mindanao and the southernmost Philippine islands between Mindanao and Borneo. They provide the “War On Terror” justification for the US military presence in those parts of the Philippines, being misleadingly lumped in with authentic Muslim separatist guerrilla armies. Ed.

Mucha and I had met in Durban, South Africa, at the World Conference Against Racism in 2001 where she had been representing a Muslim-based Interfaith Dialogue group. This time I was to be in the Philippines sponsored by the Philippines Solidarity Network of Aotearoa (PSNA) on an International Solidarity Mission investigating State terrorism in the country George Bush had tagged as the “Second Front in the ‘War on Terror’”, as well as – sponsored by my employer Northland Urban Rural Mission – on an exposure programme with Philippine research institute, the IBON Foundation, looking at the use of action research methods of community development.

The arrangement to head south became possible at the last minute with the change of my plans to be elsewhere in Mindanao, and with the cancellation of a working visit to Zamboanga City by two UK indigenous peoples’ rights lawyers. They were to have worked with the Sama Dilaut on their ancestral sea claim in Zamboanga City and out in the islands, alongside Mucha’s organisation Lumah ma Dilaut in Zamboanga, but decided to delay apparently because of the public furore calling for the ouster of President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, and possibly because of the reports of bombings in the city. They had arranged to hire three police (Pulis Turista), as personal security guards 24/7 during their stay, which sounded to me like a real liability. Some of the priests raised their eyebrows at my destination.

Mucha confirmed that I would stay at their office, and that they would pick me up at the airport. She would be wearing a red top and black head veil. I said they were the colours of Maori resistance and self-determination in this country; she liked the connection. Mucha works with the Sama Dilaut, and is from a closely related Sama clan herself. Her parents had to move from Jolo Island to mainland Mindanao, ultimately to Barrio Flamingo (then part of Clarian), after the 1974 war in Jolo, when the Philippines state attempted to crush Moro (from the Spanish for “Moors”, that is, Muslim) self-determination by brutal bombings, executions and torture of civilians. In Mindanao and Moro society, the Sama Dilaut are the lowest of the 13 ethno-linguistic Moro groupings in Mindanao, looked down on by even the Tausug (Tau sin Sug, the People of the Current), themselves marginalised in their Sulu homeland and the mainland. The Sama Dilaut are nomadic, in effect stateless sea people, patronised by others at best, struggling to survive when their fishing practices are severely compromised, to claim their ancestral rights in the sea but with only land-based legislation to support the claim, and to beg for a subsistence living as far away as Manila. The Government is intent on resettling them on land (an NZAID project is supporting their resettlement in north-eastern Luzon, north of Manila). On the phone Mucha referred to such resettlement hamlets as “captive villages”.

US Military Presence

US troops are in the area, based near Zamboanga City and in the Sulu islands, but increasingly active throughout Mindanao (as well as in other parts of the country now). This area is the base for the Philippines’ theatre of Bush’s “War On Terror.” They have been on the ground in the south – more than 6,000 of them at present - since immediately after 9/11, when Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and George Bush made an agreement, suiting both of their interests (dealing to the Moros, the “War On Terror”) and contravening thereby the terms of the 1987 post-Marcos Philippines Constitution. See Herbert Docena’s article elsewhere in this issue about the covert permanent presence of US Special Forces in the southernmost islands of the Philippines. Ed.

On the phone to me, Mucha ironically referred to the troops being in Zamboanga City doing “community service”. I was later to find out that the name for the US Marines’ work (in full battle dress) on roads, the airport and port in Jolo was Project Bayanihan, the same term I heard elsewhere, such as when the communities of Villa Real were voluntarily working together building a road or when solidarity contributions were made to organisations like that of the militant peasants, Kilusang Magbubukid ng Pilipinas (KMP). Here though, US military “community service” began about two months after the AFP/US assaults on Jolo that infamously massacred a family, amongst others. A politically active woman from Jolo later pointed out this infrastructural work on roads into the hinterland, an airport and a port, would be useful if – or when – they try to land more troops to go against Muslims in the not-too-distant future.

Mucha and Ishmael, her husband, warmly greeted me at the airport, and after a meal toured me around parts of Zamboanga City, some of which I would see closer later on. SouthComm – the Southern Command base of the Armed Forces of the Philippines (AFP), amongst other things the strategic base for Philippines, Australian and US military cooperation; the then head of the NZ Army, Major-General Jerry Mateparae, was to receive an honour guard there a few weeks later *. The nearby entry to the Balikatan base, where US troops were based – named for the series of continuing “exercises” designed to make it look like they weren’t really in the Philippines. A US ship was unloading “equipment” at the port (weapons, I was told by a policeman later on); but not much other direct sign of US presence. * For details of Mateparae’s September 05 visit to the Philippines, see “NZ Military Should Have Nothing To Do With The Philippines”, by Murray Horton, in Kapatiran 25/26, December 2005, which can be read online at http://www.converge.org.nz/psna/KapNo25n26/kap25art/art122.htm. Mateparae has since been promoted to NZ’s Chief of Defence Staff. Ed.

A “captive village”, Sinunuc, on the outskirts of Zamboanga City, on the water’s edge. A golf course, the last bit of traditional Moro land in the city (with only one tomb left to them), now subject to a customary claim. A hint (it was a Sunday) of the chaotic traffic – pedicabs, motorbikes, trucks – that meant dangerous living for locals. A Filipino-Turkish Tolerance School, with missionary teachers. Interesting juxtapositions of Muslim and Christian institutions. Military checkpoints every few metres, after dark.

We briefly visited a flash conference centre (restaurant and halls) called La Vista del Mar, set on public foreshore land used as if owned by the Lobregat dynasty. The colourful sails of the Sama Dilaut vinta boats are rarely seen on the waters now - but are co-opted by the elite and mainstream society as decorations. There are large vinta sails on poles (“without the boats!” the Sama and their friends note ironically) at this centre for the elite. The Fiesta week for Zamboanga City uses these symbols widely - all without regard for the people they actually represent, who are actively despised or at best patronised. Echoes of our own NZ colonial history, and of aspects of our current relationships. A large trapped tortoise in a corner of water, pathetically trying to get to the sea, is an image for the Sama that stays with me.

The Lobregats control the Coconut Federation - which gets substantial government subsidies, and has plantations in most wartorn areas of Mindanao. Mother, Maria Clara, is a former Mayor of Zamboanga City; son Celso is still a national Senator (actually this mother and son tandem tends to alternate in the Mayor and Congressman’s roles). The Lobregats are associates of ousted President Joseph “Erap” Estrada* who, in 2000, declared “all-out war” in Mindanao against Moro activists. When Maranao activists seized coconut plantations in their area from the Lobregat dynasty, and were under Moro National Liberation Front (MNLF) protection, the Lobregats opposed a ceasefire and peace talks, wanting the “all-out war” to continue. *Estrada was President from 1998-2001. He was removed, half way through his term, by People Power 2, a popular uprising against the massive corruption of his regime. He remains nominally in custody and very nominally on trial on the capital charge of plunder. His Vice President, Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, took over his job – and nothing changed. Ed.

Estrada’s “all-out war” (now pursued by Macapagal-Arroyo) had its own climax in Zamboanga in December 2000. A complex called Cabatangan, north of the city, was owned by the regional government of the ARMM (Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao) but the national Government wanted it back. MNLF Integrees (comprised of MNLF fighters “integrated” into the national army, the AFP, after the 1996 Peace Agreement*; these ones were mainly Sama Ba’ngingi, landbased Sama related to the Sama Dilaut) were protecting the complex. While they were having the traditional dawn meal (sahur) the AFP attacked with bombing and mortars, under the unlikely excuse that these soldiers were about to lay siege to Zamboanga City itself. A pre-emptive attack (sounds familiar, Mr Bush?). Trying to escape, the Integrees in desperation took hostages - all this watched live on national TV, with the AFP’s propaganda team providing their own version of the truth. Eventually the hostages were released, the former MNLF were allowed to leave, but they were then ambushed and killed down the road. As the families of the soldiers were at risk should they identify and claim the bodies of their dead – with that inability being a source of great shame to them - the bodies were paid for (!) and picked up by Salaam, a Muslim Peace NGO. *The 1996 Peace Agreement between the Philippines government and the MNLF ended the war waged by the latter since the 1970s, and established the ARMM, which offers very limited “autonomy” in what is the poorest region of the Philippines. The Moro Islamic Liberation Front – MILF – which split from the MNLF decades ago, continues the armed struggle for an independent Islamic state. Ed.

Lumah Ma Dilaut

I stayed in the office of Lumah Ma Dilaut in the barrio of Santo Nino within Barangay Putik (the civic area, named for “mud”. Barrios and barangay are the basic units of local government). I slept upstairs beside the Islamic prayer room, across from “the Museum”, an educational display of Sama Dilaut life – aware of the heat, the echoes of the ancestors, and the barrio noises of the very early morning, familiar no doubt to many of you…

An upper room
in Barrio Santo Nino, Putik.

Rooster call. An echoing call.
Sweepings - a coconut broom.
Jeep passing.
Child call.
First rooster. Obedient echoes.
Bun-seller’s horn. Moving. Fading.
Child Caspar’s repetitive mantra.
Motorcycle.
Roosters.
Background traffic din.
Sweepings.
Male shout. Repeated. Angry.
Small dog bark.
Dominant rooster. Scolding.
Car horn.
Distant bun-seller.
Sweepings.
Child.

As usual.
Day waking in the barrio.



A tall electric fan was essential equipment. I carried it between the office and the nearby kadday (eatery), much to the amusement of the people of the barrio. The food at the kadday and the Basilan coffee, prepared by Dayan and Anne (young Sama women, affiliates and since then teachers and administrators with Lumah), were very welcome.

The Killing Of A Pedicab Driver

The kadday was also a small store for the two to support themselves. Jerry Masa used to come there for his cigarettes “on tick” (credit). He drove a sikadsikad, a pedicab named after a conch shellfish, both shell and pedicab moving with the same rhythmic sway. He was killed by an AFP Marine a hundred metres away on the second day I was there. The other drivers – although financially very vulnerable, having to rent their bicycles from “The Man” for 60 pesos* a day, normally (I was told) silent in the face of marginalisation – went on strike. Rented their bicycles then lined up, grimfaced, arms folded. * The 2007 exchange rate is around 31 pesos to $NZ1. Ed.

The ripples go underground in the barrio
No protests, no screaming for police,
No scales of justice to tilt...

But the message passes quietly
The old man driving his sikadsikad
The old man getting his two cigarettes
from the village store
The old man, widower, with a place in a family

Was shot dead by a Marine
whose shiny motorbike was nudged
in the confusion of traffic -
shot for existing
for taking up space.
And the ripples surface
in the huddles at corners
in the quiet watching

and in the line of sikadsikads and drivers
at the entrance to the barrio.

An old man killed.
The sikadsikad drivers are on strike
.

Lumah Ma Dilaut is a small organisation working alongside the nomadic Sama Dilaut sea nomads. The organisation’s name means A House in the Sea, an image from their poled houses way out from land that I was later to visit, and a metaphor for the Sama dream of recovering their former identity and home. Lumah Ma Dilaut concentrate on building up the Samas’ capacity by activities like the iskul-iskul, a form of alternative informal education as the mainstream schools largely fail to provide their children’s needs, as well as working in mainstream schools to assist Sama to survive and achieve there. The underlying issue though is to strengthen the confidence and capacity of the traditional leadership and the clans, who tend to get pushed around by others. Lumah also works as the community legal research partner with some foreign legal assistance on an ancestral claim to the Sama seas (the case if filed has the potential of establishing new precedents in Philippines law which part-acknowledges land-based ancestral title), and other issues of importance to the Sama Dilaut.

On the basis of that relationship with the Sama Dilaut, they also work more broadly. Legal advocacy with women on crucial gender issues in both Lumad (indigenous) and Shari’a (Islamic) law and social systems. A rights focus for indigenous peoples. Research documentation on domestic violence. Providing cohesion for the development of a network of Lumad and Moro women through Mindanao called Pesosan – women who can do anything men do; they seem to consciously keep aside from the purely political debates within Moro society (as an outsider, it struck me that the current MNLF doctrine of Ulama* has a patriarchal and monarchical structure of which the women may well be cautious). A striking banner from one of the Pesosan workshops, showing the hands and statements of each of these women from different ethnic groups affirming the woman’s shape at the centre, hangs in the Lumah office. Lumah Ma Dilaut’s style appears to me to be low key, respectful, participatory. * Ulama – the project for establishing a pan-national Muslim state. Ed.

They were also at the time coordinating a project called ODA (Overseas Development Aid) Budget Watch. Their impressive action research process was geared to upskill grassroots Mindanaon women to assess where foreign “aid” is going, what its impact was on their communities, who benefited. They were creatively inventing the methodology as they go, looking for examples in evaluation reports done for the World Bank and working backwards to match the report with what happened in reality. Some academics they are working with are good in their specific areas, but the women are taking the project well beyond that. How do you teach mainly illiterate women to analyse budgets? - don’t ask academics (or me).

Resettlement

One of the first impressions I had, that first afternoon touring Zamboanga, was of the resettlement villages – a society of peoples shifted en masse by military or the institutions controlled by the elite. Peoples marginalised, kept at the edge. The shifting of peoples for reasons of war. The reshiftings of IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons, internal refugees) when the first location doesn’t suit the powers that be. The siphoning of Government monies from their intended target - houses in one new village meant to be built for IDPs at 75,000 pesos each (less than $NZ2,000) are pathetically underbuilt, well under their meagre budget, and hardly used by those who were really supposed to be using them. The shifting to inland places of IDPs whose home is the sea, and to places where people have to walk long distances for drinking and washing water. The nation-state’s needs against the people’s.

The name Zamboanga refers to the pole the Sama use to steer their longboats, and by implication is a place where the sea nomads struck land and stuck their sambuans. A shore-bounded area of land where there was formerly a Sama Dilaut village, right on the edge of the city, has been “reserved” for the expansion of Zamboanga tourist attractions, an extension of the Fort Pilar shrine, to be a grand promenade similar to Manila’s baywalk, aptly called the Paseo del Mar, and an echo of the Lobregats’ La Vista del Mar - the village shifted and dispersed, but the land still unused, awaiting the great plan to be enacted. The island of Greater Santa Cruz not far offshore - a Sama village - is planned by the city tourism authorities to be cleared of people and houses to become picnic areas for the wealthy (some of these already starting); maybe the displaced Sama will be able to come back sell their crafts there (!).

Mucha’s Sama Laminusa parents and family had to leave Jolo, out in the Sulu archipelago, to come to the mainland at the time of the terrible war there in 1974. They were first placed by the Government closer to the sea, but were then forced inland to what is now Flamingo village – away from the sea and two kilometres from the nearest water source. That was still the situation in 2005 – the promised pipes had yet to arrive, as well as most other facilities, a marginalising of these refugees that mirrors the lack of respect they receive from the authorities and the wider population. And they continue to be under armed AFP guard there, albeit in this village a low key guard. In many ways, the Sama Dilaut are resettled people. As well as the last resisters against resettlement.

Sama Dilaut

For much of my detailed information about the Sama Dilaut, I am indebted to Mucha and her stories and her extensive writing.

The Sama Dilaut are the sea-roaming clans of the Sama peoples, all of whom speak the Sinama language. Other Sama clans are collectively named for their place of origin (like the Sama Laminusa or Sama Ba’ngingi), or more generally for being shore-dwellers or sedentary. Newly sedentary Sama Dilaut tend to distinguish themselves from the boat-dwellers, mainly because there are a range of pejorative names and matching attitudes (like “Badjao” or worse, like “Luwaan”, “that which is vomited out”, a common Tausug term for the Sama Dilaut) that have been directed abusively at the Sama Dilaut, both by the Tausug of the Sulu islands, and the A-a seddi (“outsiders”) from lahat-bisaya (Christian lands).

The nomadic Sama Dilaut have always been loosely organised. Their relatively small clan units known as moorages are matched with a fairly horizontal form of social structure and a particular form of collective fishing called pag-ambit. Loose organisation has had the advantage of allowing them to maintain their independence, in the eras of US and Spanish imperialism, and even back into the days of the vibrant Muslim Sulu Sultanate, which was in place in the Sulu islands since 1450, before the Spanish came. Other peoples – the Tausug or Yakan, for example – were more tightly socially organised and thereby fitted in and established themselves within the Muslim political structure of the Sultanate. For their part, other Muslim peoples told derogatory stories about the Sama Dilaut and their relationship with the Prophet Muhammad, possibly reflecting irritation with the Samas’ independent-mindedness, their non-hierarchical and lightly organised society, as well as their resistance to being fully Islamic. Also, the Sama Dilaut do not identify strongly with the BangsaMoro (Moro nation’s) national identity.

While the Sama Dilaut are often regarded as nominally Muslim, and they do have a belief in a Supreme Being, they are rather animists. Their Supreme Being M’boh Tuhan is distant and indifferent and does not require their attention. However the ancestors (M’boh), as well as the jinns (spirits), do require constant attention and rituals; in a non-Islamic way, they control illness, death and watch over the living. Their presence is an active one for the people; the shore villages even now are structured in a circle around the cemetery, with the white and yellow flags there denoting the source of political and social power for the clan (I am told in some villages the mosque is also placed at that centre too, reinforcing the connection of spiritual powers, but I did not see such villages).

As one might expect of nomads, the loose organisational structure of the Sama Dilaut has – I am told – a very pragmatic and present day focus, with leadership focusing around the moorings which small clans would gather around. Elder leadership in the moorings or the poled villages well offshore is now framed in terms of the male Panglima and the female Pandaay (a shaman, usually the oldest woman who is also the midwife) – a white flag identifies her house amongst the lines or clusters of poled houses. Through these two traditional leaders, certificates of identity are issued (“I know this child to be born to this couple…”); through the Panglima Kapintale, for example, members of the community in the Moro urban village Rio Hondo are linked to Sangali village’s clan structure. This type of leadership fits practically alongside the leadership amongst younger people who are more flexible to negotiate with the non-Sama A-a seddi or “outsiders”. There is an oral process of handing on the mythologised history of the clan and community events to the next generation called katakata, which happens during social occasions, but even with that process people apparently do not name specific ancestors more than three generations back – a reflection of the looseness of their social organisation, as well as the conflictual issues around their ethnic identity referred to above.

While their loose organisation has meant the Sama Dilaut have largely retained their independence over the centuries, it has also had the effect of leaving the Sama Dilaut vulnerable to external machination, and ill-positioned to negotiate issues of economic, social and political power in the wider society. Loose organisation has had the effect of them becoming a vanishing people. The effects of watch towers, the purse seiners and partida arrangements provide cases at point.

The watch towers (palao – like little islands with a raised hut) that I saw off the edge of Basilan Island are used to define fishing areas, particularly good squid and cuttlefish areas, or seaweed farming areas. The towers are usually controlled by Tausug, Sama Ba’ngingi, or Yakan families. The Sama Dilaut are blocked from those fishing areas that they once traditionally fished, but do not complain for fear of getting shot.

Large purse seiners (known as “haulboats”) have dredged much of the waters and destroyed fishing nurseries and stock for the Sama Dilaut (though Mucha thinks there is still a viable fishing base possible out in Sulu). The “haulboats” are Government-licensed and encouraged, in contrast with the small fishers who have to pay substantial fines for minor technical transgressions, fines that they cannot afford.

The importance of Lumah Ma Dilaut’s work on the ancestral claims, working to establish the Sama Dilaut’s customary right to these waters, is in part about redressing this damage and control. There are seven recognised traditional Councils, and 15 Panglima, who drive the ancestral claim work. The key according to the Lumah people, is to get the people’s involvement. There were however some dark hints of risks that the Panglimas were taking by being involved.

Partida arrangements are another huge problem for the Sama Dilaut. Partida is a system of “collectives” with small fishers and divers having to join one-sided “partnerships” with large companies (usually Tausug or Visayan), with some practical assistance received but incurring debts to them through a deceptive open-credit line, as well as having to sell their catch to them at vastly reduced prices. For many this had become the only way they could maintain their fishing livelihood. In a rather terrible way, the women and children are kept as collateral for these terrible arrangements of debt contracted by the men, should the male deep sea fishers not return. An extreme version of selling one’s soul to the company store. Further, the Sama are obliged to build their houses under the businessman’s eye, so the women and children are available to him at any stage; the nomads become tied to the land. And should the whole collective (or moorage) make a run for it, they will be chased by the business’ thugs and sometimes summarily executed.

Sama Dilaut Villages

The villages I saw reflected a range of relationships with the society around them.

Sininuc

This poled village is right beside the main road at the north of Zamboanga, on the edge of the sea. It makes a very neat picture; you could imagine tourist buses pulling up here. But the attractive long pointed boats are pulled up, unused; the men are not around, the place struck me as lifeless and dispirited. A couple of the women brought out their very colourful beautifully crafted mats for show and for sale. For me the picture had a sadness about it. And the women and children may indeed be “tied down” there, as in the partida arrangements.

At Sinunuc, the development base is called the Ahon Badjao Centre, and is apparently poorly used by the Sama Dilaut, Some time ago, some Government workers who liaised with the Sama Dilaut in the past (like the old Maori Affairs Department, maybe?) had an idea of working for Sama Dilaut development. The phrase they used to describe the concept was Ahun Badjao (a Sinama language phrase for “uplifting the Badjao” or Sama development). By the time the project came back with Government directives and foreign funding it had become named for a Filipino national language phrase: the Ahon Badjao anti-poverty project – meaning something quite different, namely to “fish the Badjao out of the sea”. The name says it all. It looks good in concept, but without being applied in the context of the Sama Dilauts’ sea-nomadism as a valid way of life, it only serves to haul these people up to resettle them on land, and thereby ultimately joining the poorest of the poor land dwellers.

Sangali And Da’ap

To the south east of Zamboanga City is Sangali and the more traditional village of Da’ap. We had two offduty policemen, friends, who kept us company for security, as well as Edga Juaini, the officer for the National Commission for Indigenous Peoples (NCIP), who is part of the reason for the trip to Sangali, Da’ap and Badjao Hope. The Barangay Captain at Sangali (local “mayor”, sort of) knows the party is due to discuss issues with him, and has made himself scarce. So we head down to the waterside to Da’ap.

This village was formed from a yet-earlier surge of resettlement, after World War II, as the new Philippines nation-state tried to control the nomads. But Da’ap had become – particularly with the building up of the cemetery at its centre – the Paglahat or home-ground of the clan. They were established there at this edge of the ocean. The village did not appear to be full but it was alive, a number of the boats were evidently out in the waters. It became gradually clear to me why the resettlement village we were going to had been built further out – the port that Da’ap sat beside had been planned to be significantly expanded, and the terminal would require the land upon which Da’ap was based, the village and the cemetery. A slow but sure pressure to shift. We walked in the rain and on sliding tracks out to the resettlement village.

Badjao Hope

Tumbutumbuan is the sea to the Sama Dilaut. The term conveys an entity without boundaries; it is physical, spiritual, cultural, human; it means “creation or natural resources”. In sharp contrast, land conveys restriction, it means mud and dirtiness to the Sama Dilaut. This newish Government resettlement village, this “captive village”, can often only be reached by a long trek across slippery clay tracks. Its placement is a pain to the sea nomads, in a way that may not have struck its patronising Government constructors and their Canadian government funder-partners for whom happy stories are presented on each visit. I had some personal sense of how different this was from the clean freedom of the Tumbutumbuan of the nomads.

We walked in the tropical humidity and heat some distance to the newish village on the corner of the port. Badjao Hope – with a name that manages both to insult (Badjao) and patronise (Hope) at the same time – is a Government resettlement village, where some of the people from nearby Da’ap have been relocated. To some eyes it would have looked flash and neat; little boxes of houses in three straight lines of maybe 20 houses each, together forming a U shape facing back from the sea, all on poles. There was none of the organic vibrancy of design of the residents’ home village Da’ap back on the land, or of Tampalan on Malamawi Island. In fact it had been poorly placed where the Sama would not have put it, two houses having already been washed away by the currents.

People at this Government village were in a real way entrapped there. The Barangay’s low key policeman was there keeping an eye open for houses that weren’t being used. For example, the Barangay Security Chief had told one woman, Panglima Lasting’s daughter, that she was to lose her house out at Badjao Hope because she kept going back and staying for days at the village they had been “resettled” from; but she needed to go back to the cemetery at Da’ap as the shaman had told her sick son to go and stay there to be healed by the ancestors. A real contradiction for the mother.

The meeting with the Government agent, who was a potential intermediary, the Panglima, and the Lumah Ma Dilaut advocates – with a large number of interested onlookers - canvassed a number of issues. Arguments about that woman’s house. Arguments about spirituality – the jinns and ancestral spirits will not dwell on galvanised-ceilinged houses. Arguments about electricity. And a strong sense of dependency, but framed in a different way to my foreign ears; it was as if “we have come here from our waters to keep you happy, now you Government and authorities must supply our needs”. I left somewhat disturbed with the implications of all those discussions. And wondering whether the NZAID village in Luzon would prove any better; I doubted it.

Tampalan

By fast ferry, Ishmael and Mucha-Shim took me to Isabela City on Basilan Island; then by longboat to visit Lumah Ma Dilaut’s iskul-iskul, an informal alternative school, in a traditional Sama Dilaut floating village on poles in Barangay Tampalan on Malamawi Island, offshore from Isabela City. This was an awesome and moving experience. And an introduction to Tumbutumbuan, the physical-spiritual world of the sea. A brief insight into their difficulties of maintaining their fishing and sea culture. And a complete contrast to Badjao Hope, with the treks through clay and mud; and being trapped in the “fishnet” there.

Tampalan was a particularly large village, as far as I could see. There was only water, and a few plank walkways, between the houses jutting way out into the straits between Basilan and Malamawi Islands. A wedding celebration was in its third day at the edge of our view. The boats were long prowed, driven by an outboard motor and steered by a young man or boy with the sambuan pole jammed into the shallower water and against the side of the prow. They whisked around the houses that had their own boats on racks, families seated in the lower rooms which were open to the breeze and shady. The school at the time was very basic, based in Panglima Bulakkan’s billiards room, set up daily around the covered billiards table. Monang the Lumah teacher would have worked hard to make the teaching effective, I imagine. Recently Mucha has emailed to celebrate the new school that Lumah has opened in Tampalan, in their own building functioning also as the Centre for Living Traditions for the Sama communities.

We also responded to an invitation to visit the Barangay Captain Sukarno’s office not far from the small wooden mosque, recognising thereby the balance and the tension between authorities. My impression had been that, even with goodwill, the role of the young Islamic professionals (I gained a bit of a picture of the Islamic mindset against the indigenous system with its animist roots) and the Barangay Captain was problematic in the way they related to the traditional leaders. I had listened to discussions between the Panglima and Barangay Captain around the demarcation between civil and traditional authorities (the Panglima has recognised authority in marital matters; the Captain has legal authority in civil disputes).

Back in Isabela City on the long papet (motor) boat, before leaving on the ferry for Zamboanga, I presented two matau (Maori bone carving in the shape of a fish hook) carved by Carwyn Ngere of Ngati Wai to Panglima Jaabao Limpasan and Panglima Bulakka Injirani – the two traditional leaders we had travelled with from Isabela (Bulakka is the senior Panglima of Tampalan’s Council of Elders). In a sense, I was a vehicle for a gift from the People of the Water to the People of the Water. In the context of the tensions mentioned above, it was good to have an opportunity to recognise the indigenous social structures and the traditional leaders later on by presenting the matau amulets. They were movingly articulate in response: “This never happens!”

We were watched carefully during our time in Tampalan, Malamawi, and in Isabela City, Basilan. Malamawi Island in one sense is the centre of the Abu Sayyaf (Abu Sabaya, a key Abu Sayyaf leader, had his house on the island, in Barangay Carbon adjacent to Tampalan). For one thing, it seems people were checking out if I was a USAID worker, which would have been quite problematic – aid and Marines being two faces of the same agenda. I had automatically been responding to the random calls from the wharves that I was definitely not “Milikan” (American). It was a couple of weeks later that Mucha told me that I was the only white to have visited Tampalan since about 1992: “Thank you for your courage, and for trusting us,” she wrote dryly.

Abu Sayyaf

Abu Sayyaf (“Bearer of the Sword”) Group were originally youthful idealists in the Moro National Liberation Front (MNLF), who challenged the MNLF leadership when Nur Misuari began what they saw as a compromised path with the Government. Founded in the mid-1980s by Abdurajak Abubakar Janjalani, and followed by his brother, Khaddafy Janjalani (recently killed), their aim was to propagate Islam through jihad. Not long afterwards, the US Central Intelligence Agency took Abu Sayyaf and other Muslim fighting groups from different countries to Afghanistan to fight the Russians there, until the war was over in early 1989 and they were returned to Basilan. The Abu Sayyaf is widely known to have been infiltrated by the Philippine military and so was probably quite manipulable, though some stayed loyal to the idealist strand of their roots.

Interestingly, Abu Sayyaf had been demanding that foreign vessels and big fishing boats be banned from the Sulu seas – a call that would in the long term potentially enable the small Sama Dilaut fishers to fish again with their smaller boats in areas around Basilan and Sulu, and without relying on the large boats for partida patronage.

Abu Sayyaf are infamous as brigands, noted for their brutality and for taking hostages in the Sulu archipelago. However – with other Moro liberation groups being either mainstreamed or, like the Moro Islamic Liberation Front (MILF), in peace talks with the Government – Abu Sayyaf seem to serve as scapegoats, as “terrorist” excuses for the Philippines government, the AFP and their foreign US and Australian “advisors” to maintain an active military presence amongst the local Moro peoples. Abu Sayyaf (sometimes now alongside the pan-Islamic Jemaah Islamiyah group) serves as a Philippines government excuse for the local “War On Terror” and for huge AFP and foreign military buildup, in much the same way as the US uses Al Qaeda as an excuse for military intervention wherever it suits them. That military activity, however, has been responsible to date for the killing of scores of Muslim civilians, massacres, several incidents of torture, and the displacement of tens of thousands of people.

When I was in Mindanao, upgraded US and UK travel advisories about Zamboanga City and the Sulu archipelago referred to Abu Sayyaf activity. Posters at Zamboanga airport and in the Barangay Captain’s office at Tampalan floating village showed individual faces of some 24 Abu Sayyaf Group, with eight “crossed out” (killed or captured), with a red X.

A week after I had left Zamboanga City, an alleged Abu Sayyaf member (supposed to have been involved in bombings in 2002 that killed 12 and injured 70 in the city) was arrested there in a shoot out. As I will instance later on, I note how easy it is for the Government or Army – or the US, for that matter – to claim that opponents or non-combatant civilians are “Abu Sayyaf terrorists”. According to the International Solidarity Mission Report of 2005 – and in particular the report of the Team of which Nelson’s Mary Ellen O’Connor * was part - 130 of the 400 inmates in the appalling conditions of Metro Manila Detention Jail in Camp Bagong Diwa in Bicutan, Taguig, are labelled “Abu Sayyaf”, which in practice means that almost all of them are taken without warrant, uncharged, tortured. Moro prisoners face insulting discrimination every day, even in the process of getting food. In March 2005 27 Moro prisoners were murdered in cold blood at this prison. * See “Moros Consigned To Manila’s Slums, Rubbish Dumps & Prisons”, by Mary Ellen O’Connor, in Kapatiran 25/26, December 2005. Ed.

Begging

The Sama Dilaut, while economically forced into it, are not ashamed of begging, I am told. Their year has built-in seasons of begging, where groups travel as far away as Malate in Manila where I met them. Interestingly, the older Sama Dilaut fishermen used to travel that far for fishing. But these beggar communities mostly consist of women and children, as the men often die young or are crippled by the dangerous diving and fishing practices they had been pushed to adopt. The women therefore become the anchors for their dispersed community, as well as handers-on of the traditions and negotiators with the “outsiders”. A complex set of pressures behind the begging phenomenon.

Begging is a feature of life here. I am aware of the analysis and practical actions from that, that groups like Lumah Ma Dilaut hold in relation to the Sama Dilaut - for whom destruction and alienation are their recent history; disenfranchisement and discrimination are coupled with their reported attitude and situation of dependence (reinforced by current practices like the Government’s “captive villages” for the Sama); and in particular no shame is felt with begging and this practice is planned for on both a seasonal and an ongoing basis. With all this (I think) in mind, the activists I met would not give to beggars but rather encouraged them to undertake alternatives. None of which makes me think a begging life is at all easy, or not based on real need.

Glimpses Of Moro Zamboanga And Sulu

In Zamboanga City, Moro people are written “down” in the histories, the naming of places, the framing and reporting of events. Places are named in ways that reflect the dominant ideology. For example the “good” (according to the Spanish colonisers and the current elite who are their moral descendants) Governor Alvarez and US General “Black Jack” Pershing (who massacred thousands of Moros around 1907), have flash plazas and statues to commemorate them. General Alvarez (son of the Governor above, of mixed Spanish and Moro parentage) who went across to the Moros after he saw what was happening to them, has an unlit tiny lane named after him, where muggings take place. The high profile buildings and places in Zamboanga City reflect the historical eras of Spain’s (up until 1898) or US (until World War II) empire.

Muslim small traders are reduced to, for example, selling charity-donated goods. The city’s corporate powerful and municipal leaders are pushing out the small Muslim traders. There used to be a number of flourishing Muslim markets in Zamboanga City – including the famous and fondly remembered tax-free ”barter”. Now almost only the Tabuh Sanao (the Dark Market) survives, and that is under threat. The market’s counterculture is seen as inimical to mainstream Zamboanga City, controlled as it is by the elite.

I noted that Pesosan - the Lumad (indigenous) and Moro women’s network - keeps aside from the specifically political debates and configurations. I don’t think this is at all because they don’t have a political analysis, but for specific reasons. For instance, one strand of internal Moro debates relates to the MNLF and Ulama doctrine that the ideal would be to return to the Sultanate structure, which the women see as hierarchical, patriarchal, monarchical - and not therefore right for women. Another debate also keeps them aside from that sort of politics - the debate about whether BangsaMoro (the Moro nation) includes non-Muslims as well as Muslims – as these women are consciously working inter-ethnically, Lumad and Moro. Moro themselves report constant public confusion about peace talks between the various Moro bodies and the Government, though it has been said that this is a sign of maturity as more “non-aligned” groups are involved in political activity now.

ARMM

The Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao (ARMM) is really a watered-down version of the 13-provinced autonomous Muslim region first envisaged in the 1976 Tripoli Agreement between the MNLF and the Marcos government, and its successor, the 1996 Peace Agreement. To give a small rather dated demographic picture of Mindanao: the 1995 Census reported that the total population was then 15,944,319, with roughly 5% Lumad, 20% Moro Muslims, and 75% Christian settlers. The shifting of displaced Christian farmers from the Visayas and Luzon translated the Spanish era landlord-peasant conflict into a Moro-Christian one; US corporations building plantations in the early 1900s contributed to the displacement of the Moros. They moved from owning (with the Lumads) all of Mindanao’s land to, by the late 1990s, owning less than 17%, mostly infertile mountainous country, and over 80% of the Moros are now landless tenants. This is the context that underpins the armed Moro groups that have flourished in Mindanao.

Contrary to the Tripoli Agreement (brokered by Libya) whereby only Muslims would vote on entry to the proposed ARMM, everyone - dominant Christians and others – was allowed to vote. The result was that several cities (including Zamboanga City) voted out, and four poor provinces and Marawi City opted into ARMM. The region is now structurally split; Maguindanaon and Sulu Muslims are separated. The region is decentralised with satellite offices; has an ineffective bureaucracy; an expensive running budget, and resources don’t get to the communities; the political assembly intended to bring the empowering Organic Act to life is reduced to managing the budget for the offices; central governments’ laws devolving power and security to the region were never passed. In other words, ARMM could be said to be toothless and designed to fail. All of which suits the central government, and the US!

The de facto failure of ARMM (the compromise of the peace process having failed) and the breach of faith by the Government was one of the reasons for the recent “renewed war” by Nur Misuari’s “real MNLF” and the “Renegade Group” of the MNLF, armed and active in the hills. Professor Misuari - apparently first to use the older term “Moro” in such a way as to unite the 13 Moro groupings; first governor of ARMM in the optimistic days after 1996; now prisoner of the Philippines’ state in Santa Rosa, Laguna City, still uncharged, as far as I have heard - according to some writers now seems to hold greater influence than before. While MNLF sympathetic to the Government are said to hold sway within the ARMM, the ongoing BangsaMoro agenda named by Misuari and others is being followed with passion. And the Government of Gloria Macapagal-Macapagal-Arroyo continues to place US interests above those of the BangsaMoro people.

Sulu

February 7th is an ominous date in Jolo Island in the Sulu archipelago that stretches offshore from Zamboanga City to close to Malaysia. Jolo was the centre of the Sulu Sultanate that long preceded Hong Kong and Macau in importance.

February 7th, 1776 is when the Spanish, jealous of Sulu’s influence and economic power, laid siege to this most significant commercial hub of South East Asia, to finally bring it into submission and control its economy. An event without which Hong Kong or modern day Singapore may never have taken off.

February 7th, 1974 is when the Sulu War began with an AFP attack ordered by President Marcos to deal to upstart Moros. Jolo, the capital of Sulu, was burnt to the ground, its economy again destroyed, and thousands of refugees were scattered across mainland Mindanao and beyond, including to Flamingo village mentioned above.

February 7th 2005 (a few months before I arrived in Mindanao) is when most of a family (Tal and Nurshida Padiwan – she was pregnant - their 14 year old son Aldassir, and the children’s uncle Salip Faisal) were massacred in their beds by members of the 53rd Infantry Battalion of the AFP, a massacre witnessed by three of the Padiwan children (seven year old Almujayal, ten year old Madzrana, and three year old Aljeezmer) who escaped and told their stories, but still have to be in hiding. The MNLF Renegade Group tried to avenge the massacre, so the Army then laid siege to the village and bombed it, using Abu Sayyaf as the unlikely excuse.

This latest AFP attack followed years of their aerial bombings, killings, artillery shelling of civilian communities, forced evacuations, with schools and mosques being taken over for military purposes – almost always naming Abu Sayyaf as the excuse for these violations. It also repeated a pattern of atrocities coinciding with the various starts of Government talks with the Moro Islamic Liberation Front (MILF, as in this instance) or with the MNLF, thus providing an excuse for blame, for heavy-handed military responses, and for destabilising the peace talks and continuing the “total war” against Muslims. Cynical Government duplicity has meant another opportunity for peace being lost, and their real agenda unmasked.

I spent some hours with a rather extroverted Muslim woman from Jolo, who had been taken mysteriously at short notice to the US for an exposure programme similar to those noted below. She used the opportunity to ask hard questions of the State Department in Washington about US troops in Jolo (which they denied). Then, when greeted by the Provincial Governor and US Community Relations Officer Lieutenant Colonel Michael Donnelly on her arrival in Jolo, she took the opportunity to lambaste them about the US troops – those for whom Donnelly was doing the PR job – that had in fact just landed there. This is Sulu, where consortia of large foreign oil companies are being encouraged by the Government and the US to drill for oil in the rich Sulu basin; where US troops are now based, their ”community service” infrastructural work begun; and where the reformed MNLF is in the hills and secure.

Of Dialogue, “Development” And Domesticity

Along with my hosts I visited the Silsilah Dialogue Institute (SDI) on the outskirts of Zamboanga City. The Institute was founded in 1984 by Father Sebastiano D’Ambra (whom I met briefly some days later). I had a couple of hours with the Director, Bong Aranal. The basic focus is on Christian/Muslim dialogue - with a strong emphasis on spirituality, deliberately keeping away from the political. Their special focus is however promotion of peace dialogues, with a particular setting that I would describe (even if the Institute doesn’t) as “political” in the sense of “Western-oriented”. Silsilah runs elementary schools, seminars on the culture of dialogue, a public library, and hosts public lectures including by progressive thinkers like Professor Randy David (I noted Bong used the derogatory term “Samal” when speaking of the Sama Dilaut).

Some people I spoke with noted with concern a pattern of passivism amongst young Muslim professionals in the current era, and a move towards a type of spirituality that leads away from “engagement”. The Philippines Commission on Islam and Democracy, funded by USAID’s Asia Foundation, is said to be composed of activists of maybe 15 or 20 years ago, young Moro ideologues with good credentials. They were the perfect leaders for the future, but were felt to be constrained and compromised now in this Government-sponsored institution. The best young academics and lawyers were being enticed to join programmes in the US – like a particular former energetic human rights activist now studying at Harvard (that said, I did hear that some young people were holding true to a robust BangsaMoro nationalism, even within some of the more mainstreamed structures).

That trend is coupled with a US and international emphasis on “moderate Muslims”. The language is everywhere, and is seriously underpinned with USAID and US philanthropic funding - another level of invasion, working to domesticate Moro identity and nationalism, but not an unfamiliar one, as people still remember the US pensionado programme after the so-called Liberation from the Japanese by US General Douglas MacArthur at the end of World War 11. GEM (Greater Equity for Mindanao), for example, is an intermediate funder set up by USAID with a focus on “moderate Islam” and supporting the more docile projects. “We are already within the web (of anti-terrorism activity)” one canny Moro woman observed. In that context, the more active, engaged Moro workers, educationalists and institutes with whom I came into contact, are being isolated, sidelined from resources, and their public voice hindered.

Several people - including a participant, and a progressive critic, and Bong – all spoke of the Mindanao Peace-Building Institute, a USAID (read “US government”)-funded collaboration between Capitol University in Cagayan del Oro, Mindanao and Northern Illinois University. Bong Aranal is the Regional Coordinator of this. They take selected Moro and Christian students from the ARMM areas (the five provinces and two cities that are part of the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao), bring them to the US for a short term placement in the likes of the State Department, then follow up with them through the Cagayan University afterwards. The panel selecting the participants includes US academic Dr Susan Rassell and US Embassy Cultural Affairs Officer Bruce Armitage – this is “how the West was won,” I suppose.

The invitation to a senior academic I met to attend a presentation about ACCESS Philippines Program, described ACCESS as “an Interfaith Dialogue and Conflict Resolution Program funded by the US State Department… designed to bring young leaders from Mindanao to America to learn about interfaith dialogue, peer mediation and peace-building initiatives…”. One informant spoke of the “psywar” (psychological warfare) now endemic in the academies. “How can we make USAID hallal-ised?” one Muslim asked (hallal they translated as “good”) - or is it possible at all? Moros noted the strong connections between development “Aid” and the aggression they systematically experienced.

Different informants noted that the UN Development Programme, and since recently the European Union, work with the MNLF-related Moros; the World Bank works with the MILF-related Moros - a division of spheres of influence, but with a common agenda from all sides. There are three BMWFs (BangsaMoro Women’s Foundation/Federation/Forum) all based in Cotabato City. I understand they are fronted by mainly elitist Muslim women, each grouping of which have different funding sources (UNIFEM* and the USAID’s Asia Foundation link with the Forum, for example, which is active within the Regional Legislative Assembly), echoing the divisions mentioned above. * UNIFEM is the United Nations’ Development Fund for Women. Ed.

Of course some would argue that working through these “split” organisations is in itself a legitimate strategy. Other Moro women are outsiders to these groupings. Some work strategically with them from outside. All matters for legitimate debate. Still, from my limited perspective, I can see why some women choosing to stay clear of political engagement with the BMWFs is a legitimate option. And the limited perspectives that the privileged amongst us all might have.

Muslim Villages

Baliwasan is a Muslim village stretching the length of the shadow of the old and the new PhidCorp (Philippines Development Corporation) oil refineries and winding through a cluster of other highly polluting industries. While there is some “civil society” opposition in Zamboanga to such pollution, and some organising, it is the Moro poor whose water sources and fishing seas and air that are fouled here. This village was set up here, prior to the industries, for earlier “resettled” waves of internal refugees. The little that they have access to is now being steadily destroyed, along with the environment itself. “Quadruple bottom lines” are nowhere near the civic agenda.

Shabu – methamphetamine - is prevalent, and related random violence, making life further difficult for ordinary people in Baliwasan and other poorer Muslim barrios. Nice bourgeois anti-drug billboards don’t deal with that at all, and the Police won’t actively support the victims of crime (I am conscious of that being true in my experience in poorer “brown” suburbs in NZ too). I did visit the barrios of Baliwasan, Santa Barbara and Salam, but was kept out Santa Catalina and Rio Hondo by my Moro hosts. I was told it wasn’t a good idea to go through any of these barrios after 3pm or so anyway, as you would likely be “taxed” by the drug-users, or attacked by “crazies” on the road. On May 30th. 2005, some six weeks before I was there, the barrios of Santa Catalina and Santa Barbara were on fire.

Each of these urban barrios – like Rio Hondo and Santa Barbara, tucked in dirty poverty behind the iconic Fort Pilar, bastion against the Moros, and the shrine and gold statue of Our Lady of Pilar – has substantial military stations at each end, with an aggressive attitude expressed by the armed soldiers towards the inhabitants. Moro are threats, “the enemy within” the nation-state. The extreme poverty, the dirtiness, the crime, the lack of facilities, the armed soldiers keeping people in, the historical removal of people from natural sources of food, the current destruction of their living environment: all typified the Moro barrios that I saw. In contrast, even within the context of lower living standards than in NZ, I could tell that the Christian barrios were usually relatively “upmarket”, clean and not treated with suspicion.

The Muslim villages are one face of the internal Moro refugees’ situation. They are echoes of the huge squalid communities of Metro Manila, a number of which are communities of Moro refugees – the Cotabato and Basilan refugees who had fled their homelands to live an extremely poor life on an unsanitary rubbish dump in Tondo only to find that their shacks, the only homes they have, were to be demolished in 30 minutes. The vicious face of discrimination continues. The Moro resettlement villages, the people, pushed yet again to the edge.

A couple of weeks after I had left Mindanao, I had an interesting day at a particular Muslim market up in Metro Manila, where all sorts of things could be found. That day I read in the paper that the Chair of the Metro Manila Development Authority claimed Muslim vendors were planning to assassinate him because he was clearing the sidewalks of illegal vendors. “They are no longer in Mindanao. Metro Manila is a place where reason and good character prevail” (!). In the “Christian” nation state of the Philippines, the discourse against the Muslims is everywhere. Commentators like Randy David see the position of Muslims in the Philippines, and the issues of Mindanao, as matters of real contradiction in any journey towards national unity – issues that need to be grasped with greater integrity.

Moro Strength

In writing of my experiences and learnings, I am conscious that I have been often telling the stories of marginalisation of the Moros or those closely associated with them like the Sama Dilaut. As the International Solidarity Mission 05 Report said: “We denounce the systematic violence directed towards the BangsaMoro. They are the targets of blatant discrimination, national oppression, denial of land rights and historic injustice”. None of that violence and discrimination should be played down.

But I would also like to briefly though inadequately acknowledge the other side to that story, celebrate the strength of BangsaMoro identity and resistance that I sensed in many people during my time in the Philippines. In part this is I think to do with Islam and its people who live it with devotion. This includes the commitment to service that is part of the Islamic lifestyle, which some enact as action for social justice and human rights, and as work for peace that does not whittle down the rights and integrity of the Moro peoples.

In part this is also to do with culture, in many ways. One simple example: the inspiring traditional-style songs and chants that call on people to follow the heroes of earlier days and follow the long tradition of a people battling for their rights and honour. Both religion and culture provide a basis, I would suggest, with which to reclaim Moro identity and hope for the future. I met a number of Moro people who embodied that spirit.

Conclusion

Mucha, Ishmael and I exchanged symbolic gifts as I left. I gave my Lumah friends the Foreshore and Seabed T shirt – given to me by Green MP, Sue Bradford – from Te Oneroa a Tohe’s (Ninety Mile Beach) “Hands Across The Beach” celebratory demonstration in February 2005. The similarities between the Maori call for customary rights and the ancestral maritime rights claim Lumah are working on with the Sama Dilaut made this seem appropriate. For their part, they had given me a distinctive T shirt from a Muslim learning centre in Jolo, with a slogan reflecting the Muslim commitment to service and peace.

The Moro experience gives a whole other look than that from either the Left or the Right in mainstream Philippines society. Activists from the Left have had different views from – and sometimes clashed with - the BangsaMoro nationalist movements. But it is also important to acknowledge that the Moro and in a specific and extreme way the Sama Dilaut are marginalised in mainstream society, and their interests are seen as counter to the nation-state of the Philippines, and that State’s co-option into what can only be called US imperialism. The US presence in Mindanao threatens to further separate the Lumad, Moro and Christian communities. The Christians often openly welcome the US presence, and historical religious prejudices resurface. Other forms of cross-cultural cooperation are needed to counter the US influence.

I read in the Philippine Daily Inquirer of a departing US “diplomat” being quoted as saying that he and the US were worried about foreign terrorists and local Muslim militants in Mindanao, saying “parts of southern Mindanao could potentially become another Afghanistan”. While the Philippines government mildly demurred, saying that they were in control, the rhetoric of course was designed to keep US forces with a foot in the door in Mindanao. A Moro informant in Zamboanga told me that World War 111 would begin in Sulu. Whether you think that is exaggeration or not, we need to watch carefully the space of Sulu, and of Mindanao.

Tim Howard, of Whangarei, is a PSNA member and regular writer for Kapatiran. He is a pakeha social and Tiriti justice worker. In 2005 he spent a month on an exposure tour in Manila, the Cordillera, Negros and Mindanao. This was his first visit to the Philippines.

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